Anomalous dispersion of fourier components of surface gravity waves in the near shore area

Büsching, Fritz GND

Water level deflections eta(t) have been measured synchronously at some positions in a beach profile on the isle of SYLT/North Sea during severe storm surge conditions as well as at attenuating wave action. A steadily increasing wave period T in the upbeach direction, turning out z from strip chart evaluations, is in accordance with the result of FOURIER syntheses. Near shore wave deformation is explained by ANOMALOUS dispersion of the frequency components.

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Büsching, Fritz: Anomalous dispersion of fourier components of surface gravity waves in the near shore area. Braunschweig Gekürzte englische Version 1978.

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